Knit Fabrics. Types, Uses, and Certifications

Organic Cotton Interlock

When choosing fabrics for baby and young children's clothes, you should consider the benefits of organic cotton interlock. This fabric is made from 100% organic cotton, which means it’s free from harmful chemicals and pesticides. Interlock is a single-knit cotton which has a natural stretch/give, making it excellent for garments like t-shirts and baby grows. Known for its stretch and softness, interlock has a 2-way stretch. Because the interlock knit is slightly thicker and more stable than some of the other knits, it is an excellent fabric for beginners as it’s sewn a lot like a woven fabric.

Pros:

• Does not curl and is therefore easy to work with

• Soft and gentle on delicate skin

• Breathable and hypoallergenic, reducing the risk of skin irritations and allergies

• Durable and long-lasting

• Minimal shrinkage

CONS:

• Unfortunately, organic cotton tends to be more expensive than conventional cotton due to the sustainable farming practices used.

• Interlock has some natural stretch but not as much as other knit fabrics like jersey or spandex blends, which might limit its use for certain garments.

• The thicker, more stable nature of interlock can make it less breathable than lighter knits in hot weather.

• Like many cotton fabrics, interlock can wrinkle easily.

Things to Make from Cotton Interlock:

• T-shirts

• Babygrows

• Dresses

• Loungewear

Cotton lycra

Cotton Lycra is a smooth, versatile fabric that's highly favoured in the custom fabric world. It's primarily composed of cotton with a small percentage of Lycra or spandex, making it wonderfully stretchy with excellent recovery. The cotton component ensures breathability, making it an ideal choice for leggings and other activewear. Plus, it's great for waistbands due to its fantastic stretch and recovery.

Pros:

• Breathable: Perfect for activewear and keeping cool.

• Fantastic 4-Way Stretch: Stretches in all directions for maximum comfort.

• Complete Recovery: Returns to its original shape after stretching.

• Versatile: Enough drape and structure to be used for virtually any type of garment.

CONS:

• While it’s versatile, it doesn’t excel in drape or structure as much as other fabrics might.

• Prone to Wrinkling: Due to its high cotton content, it tends to wrinkle more than other knits.

Things to Make from Cotton Lycra:

• Waistbands: Great for providing a snug yet comfortable fit.

• Cuffs and Neckbands: Stretch and recover beautifully.

• Leggings: Breathability and stretch make it perfect for activewear.

• Accessories such as headbands and scrunchies.

Cotton jersey

Cotton jersey is a type of knitted fabric known for its softness and comfort. While traditional cotton doesn't have flexibility, the knitting technique used for cotton jersey gives it an elastic quality, even without blending synthetic fibres like elastane or spandex. Organic cotton jersey is a popular choice for baby clothes due to its numerous benefits. First and foremost, it’s made from organic cotton, which means it’s free from harmful chemicals and pesticides that can be found in conventionally grown cotton. While it has a bit of stretch, it lacks significant recovery, which means it's not ideal for patterns with a lot of negative ease.

Pros:

• Breathable, soft, and comfortable

• Lightweight

• Naturally absorbent

CONS:

• Limited stretch and recovery

• Wrinkles more easily than other knit fabrics

• Depending on the quality of the cotton, jersey fabric can pill over time, especially with frequent washing.

Things to Make from Cotton Jersey:

• T-shirts

• Loungewear

• Loose dresses

• Casual garments and cosy clothes

French Terry

French terry is a light to mid-weight fabric that can be made of 100% cotton or a blend of cotton with spandex, rayon, Lycra, polyester, or organic soy. French terry has a loopy knitted inside and smooth outside. These loops enhance comfort, warmth, and moisture absorption. French terry’s versatility allows it to come in various thicknesses, drapes, and stretches. Always read listings thoroughly to understand the specific qualities of the French terry you’re buying.

Pros:

• Breathable and comfortable

• Extremely versatile

• Low-maintenance fabric that doesn’t wrinkle easily

• Soft, gentle texture perfect for sensitive skin

CONS:

• Shorts

• Sweatshirts, joggers, and hoodies

• Casual dresses and tops

Things to Make from French Terry:

• T-shirts, shorts, jumpers

• Loungewear

• Cardigans and lightweight jackets

• Hoodies and joggers etc

Ribbing / Rib

Rib fabric, also known as ribbing or rib knit, has more obvious vertical lines and comes in various fibre compositions, ranging from natural fibres like cotton to synthetic blends, including polyester and nylon. Ribbing is more durable and elastic than regular plain knits, thanks to its construction. It uses knit and purl stitches in alternating raised and lowered rows, creating cross-grain elasticity. Common patterns include 1x1 and 2x2 ribbing.

Pros:

• Elastic and durable

• Interesting ribbed texture

CONS:

• May fray if unravelled

• The texture and structure of ribbing can add bulk to garments, which might not be desirable for all designs.

• While ribbing is highly elastic, it can sometimes lose its shape and stretch out over time.

Things to Make from Rib:

• Cuffs

• Neckbands

• T-Shirts

Rayon Spandex

Rayon spandex is a blend of rayon and spandex, usually 95% rayon and 5% spandex. Rayon is a unique blend of several materials mixed together in a chemical process. Sometimes, only natural materials are used to create rayon. Other times, synthetic fibres are used as well. Spandex is a common material that will be introduced into the rayon fabric blend. Spandex lends its stretchy qualities to the rayon fabric, creating a stretchy and unique material. Because of rayon’s naturally moisture-wicking properties, spandex blended with rayon is commonly used for athletic and sportswear. Rayon spandex is a fantastic option if you're looking for a fabric that's nice and stretchy whilst also incredibly soft and lightweight.

Pros:

• Soft and lightweight

• Excellent 4-way stretch

• Beautiful drape

CONS:

• Rayon isn’t a durable fabric, washing can cause it to stretch, shrink, or bleed

• Can be very clingy

• Low Recovery (over time)

Things to Make from Rayon Spandex:

• Underwear

• Swimwear

• Athleticwear

• T-shirts

Fleece Knit

Fleece knit can be composed of different fibres. The most common are 100% polyester and polyester blends, both of which are extremely soft and durable. There are many types of fleece fabric such as sweatshirt fleece, which has a smooth jersey fabric on the right side and a brushed fleece surface on the wrong side, and polar fleece, a common type of polyester fleece perfect for outdoor clothing such as jackets and jumpers. Fleece offers a combination of softness, warmth, stretchiness, and resilience. Fleece knit fabric also has great insulation properties.

Pros:

• Warm as it retains body heat

• Does not fray easily

• Soft

CONS:

• Not breathable

• Can be tricky to sew if several layers are used (bulky)

• Environmental impact - polyester is non-biodegradable and the production of polyester fabric results in a high amount of pollution

Things to Make from Fleece Knit:

• Sweatshirts, tracksuits, sportswear, etc.

• Coats, scarves, gloves

• Blankets

Here are some UK-based fabric shops that sell knit fabrics:

1. FabriCasa Fabrics: https://fabricasafabrics.co.uk

2. DalstonMills: https://www.dalstonmillfabrics.co.uk/dress-fabrics/jersey.html

3. Good Fabric: https://goodfabric.co.uk/category/knit-fabrics

4. Higgs & Higgs Fabric Shop: https://higgsandhiggs.com

5. Pound Fabrics: https://poundfabrics.co.uk/products/thick-sweater-knit-fabric

6. FiverFabric: https://www.fiverfabric.com

These shops offer a variety of knit fabrics, including jersey, ribbing, and fleece knits. Happy shopping! 😊

Send me a message if you know of any other good places to purchase knit fabric, I'll add to the list! 👌

Understanding Textile Certifications

OEKO-Tex Certification

Have you seen a fabric with an OEKO-Tex label but are not exactly sure what it means? OEKO-TEX® is an international organization that sets standards that rigorously test products to guarantee they are safe from harmful chemicals. This is especially important when making clothes for young children. The certification is given by OEKO-TEX® to a textile brand when their product meets the strict testing and certification process. Chemical certification is hugely important when we consider the chemical cocktails present in modern clothing and textiles—think azo dyes, formaldehyde, pesticides, and phthalates. OEKO-Tex certification can provide reassurance that your fabric selection is safe for your mini-me.

GOTS Certification

An OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certification, however, doesn’t mean organic. It’s used to certify all types of textiles, not just natural fibres that can be grown and processed organically. It’s very useful for synthetic fabrics and semi-synthetic fibres like rayon, modal, lyocell, and bamboo fabric—especially since these often heavily involve chemical inputs to create.

GOTS, on the other hand, is the leading standard for certifying organic textiles like organic cotton, linen, and wool. By choosing GOTS-certified products, you're supporting sustainable farming practices that avoid harmful chemicals and pesticides. This protects soil quality, conserves water, and reduces air and water pollution. Additionally, it promotes fair trade! Purchasing fabrics with the GOTS label ensures you safer and healthier choices, which is especially beneficial for babies and young children.

Useful Links:

OEKO-TEX Certification

• OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100

• Oeko-Tex - Wikipedia

• All You Need to Know About Oeko-Tex Certification - Panaprium

• What is OEKO-Tex? & What Are The Oeko-Tex Standards - Ecothes

GOTS Certification

• Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

• Certification - GOTS - Global Organic Textile Standard

• The Ultimate Guide to GOTS Certification and Sustainable Textiles

Knit fabrics offer a versatile range of options for all kinds of sewing projects, and understanding the pros and cons of each type can help you make informed choices. Each fabric type has its unique qualities and best uses, helping you choose the right material for your next project. Happy sewing!