🧵 Sewing neat hems: Stitch Your Way to Perfect Finishes!

Introduction to Hemming in Children's Fashion

Sewing neat hems is a very useful skill – it’s a way to add both a professional finish and durability to your handmade children’s clothes. Whether you're working on a pretty dress or a playful pair of shorts, choosing the right hem can make all the difference. Here are five types of hems to help you achieve a polished, professional finish for a variety of projects.

Choosing the Perfect Hem

When sewing children’s clothing, it’s vital to pick the right hem for both practicality and aesthetics. Consider factors like the fabric’s weight and shape, and ensure the hem is durable enough for the lively adventures of little ones! Opt for hems that balance the fabric’s drape while keeping the garment comfortable and robust.

Fabric Suggestions:

• Lightweight cottons or jerseys for casual wear.

• Tulle or satin for occasion wear.

• Denim or corduroy for every day, durable garments.

• Knit (stretchy) fabrics for every day, play oufits, allows ease of movement.

Hemming Knit Fabrics
(Find out more about the types of knit fabric in this blog post.)

Knits are a popular choice for children’s wear due to their stretch and comfort. To hem knit fabrics effectively:

• Use a twin needle or coverstitch machine to maintain flexibility.

• Alternatively, use a stretch stitch or overlock stitch to ensure the hem retains its shape through repeated washes and wears.

• For added stability, apply iron-on stabilising tape within the hem allowance. This helps prevent the hem from stretching or becoming wavy – a common issue with knit fabrics.

• For an even more durable and elastic finish, I can't recommend Maraflex thread enough. I absolutely love how this high-performance elastic thread stretches beautifully with the fabric, making it a dream to work with for sewing knit garments. It’s the perfect way to achieve flexible, long-lasting seams while giving your projects a truly professional finish. Once you try it, it’s hard to go back to anything else!

  Simple and Child-Friendly Hem Techniques;

  1. Single Fold Hem
     This soft, lightweight finish is ideal for baby clothes or delicate summer outfits, as it doesn’t add bulk.
     Ensure the hem is pressed thoroughly to avoid uneven stitching.

  2. Double Fold Hem
     Durable and professional-looking, this technique is perfect for activewear, trousers, and skirts.
     Time-Saving Tip: Use a measuring gauge or hem guide to quickly fold and press.

  3. Curved Hem for Skirts & Dresses
     A fantastic option for circle skirts or scalloped hems, ensuring smooth curves without distortion.
     Fabric Suggestions: This technique works beautifully on A-line skirts or twirl-friendly dresses made from chiffon or cotton lawn.

  4. Rolled Hem for Lightweight Fabrics
     An excellent choice for fine fabrics like voile or satin, often used in children’s occasion wear.
     Alternative Method: A rolled hem foot can streamline the process and save time.

  5. Bias-Faced Hem for Structured Garments
     Ideal for heavier fabrics or decorative finishes, such as coats or party dresses.
     Project Idea: Incorporate bias tape in a contrasting colour to add a playful touch to children’s coats or pinafore dresses.

1. The Traditional Single Fold Hem

The traditional hem is a classic option for most clothing items. It involves folding the fabric edge up and sewing it in place. This type of hem is durable and easy to sew, making it a great choice for children's wear that undergoes frequent washing and active play. The traditional hem can be paired with almost any fabric and is perfect for both formal and casual pieces.

• Work a machine zigzag stitch or overlock stitch along the raw edge of your fabric to restrict fraying. Alternatively use pinking shears to trim the raw edge.

• Turn the neatened edge under by the hem allowance (eg 2cm) to the wrong side (WS) and press.

• Then machine stitch into place just inside the raw edge.

CURVED EDGE HEM

This technique is used for curved hems, such as those on full circle skirts. A narrow hem is the best option, as a deeper turn-up can distort the shape.

1. Stitch a Guide Line
   Sew a line of stitching 3mm (⅛ in) from the raw edge of the hem.

2. First Fold and Press
   Turn the raw edge to the wrong side (WS), using the stitching as a guide, and press.

3. Second Fold and Press
   Fold the hem over again, enclosing the first fold, and press. The line of stitching will sit on the very edge of the second fold.

4. Final Stitching
   Pin and stitch close to the second fold to secure the hem.

ROLLED HEM

This is useful for a fiddly, narrow hem, but works best with delicate fabric. It can be sewn using a special rolled hem foot or with an ordinary machine foot by using some extra steps. It is the best way to hem lightweight fabrics such as linen, voile, and satin. It is perfect for hems on sheer fabrics as well, as it doesn’t stand out and only adds minimal bulk. Unfortunately, it does not work well on heavier fabrics as the hem can become bulky.

1. Mark the Stitching Line
   Decide on your hem allowance and stitch a line 5mm (¼ in) inside this.
   Example: If you want a 2cm (¾ in) hem, stitch a line 1.5cm (⅝ in) from the raw edge.

2. First Fold and Press
   Fold the fabric to the wrong side (WS) along this line. You should be able to see the stitching rather than folding directly on it—leave about 3mm (⅛ in) between the stitch and the fold. Press.

3. Second Stitch Line
   Stitch directly over the first stitch line. Press again.

4. Trim the Excess Fabric
   Carefully trim away the excess seam allowance close to the stitching—approximately 3mm (⅛ in) from the stitch line.

5. Final Fold and Press
   Fold the hem over again, using the original stitch line as a guide. This will create a narrow hem approximately 3–5mm (⅛–¼ in) wide. Press.

6. Final Stitching
   Stitch in place, sewing over the existing stitch line. Secure the ends and trim any loose threads.

BIAS-FACED HEM

Bias-faced hems are ideal for using on curved hems and for heavier fabrics that need a neater edge. The method prevents garments from looking bulky by cutting strips of bias binding on the bias. It’s a good way to add a little printed fabric or a coloured trim.

1. Position the Bias Tape
   Lay your garment flat so the hem follows its natural curve. Place the bias tape right sides together (RS) with the hem, aligning the raw edges. Pin along the entire edge.

2. Start Sewing
   Leaving 5cm (2 in) of bias tape loose at the beginning, sew along the pre-folded crease in the bias tape.

3. Leave an Opening
   Stop stitching 10cm (4 in) before reaching the starting point.

4. Join the Bias Tape Ends
   Trim and join the short ends of the bias tape together, then stitch to complete the seam.

5. Fold and Press
   Flip the bias tape over to the wrong side (WS) of the fabric. Press, then fold the bias tape over the fabric edge.

6. Secure the Hem
   Stitch along the edge of the binding using a slip stitch for an invisible finish or machine stitch close to the fold for a more secure hem.

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